Wood Floor Types

Wood flooring is available in a number of sizes and kinds, each offering its own distinct advantages. People are often surprised by the limitless choices that wood flooring affords them. Today's wood flooring is right for virtually every room. Choosing the right kind and style of wood flooring is not hard if you are familiar with several industry terms.

Choice #1: Unfinished wood flooring:
Unfinished flooring is a product that must be job-site sanded and finished after installation.

Choice #2: Pre-finished wood flooring:
Pre-finished flooring is a factory sanded and finished flooring that only needs installation.

Choice #3: Solid wood flooring:
Solid wood flooring refers to a 3/4 inch piece of solid wood. It is available in unfinished and pre-finished. Solid wood flooring is produced in the following styles:

	Strip - in thicknesses of 5/16" to 3/4" and widths of 1 1/2"-3" wide, creating a linear effect in the room. Strip flooring is generally considered "traditional" wood flooring.
	Plank - in thicknesses of 1/2" or 3/4" and widths of 3 1/4 " to 10 "
	Parquet - geometrical patterns composed of individual wood slats held in place by mechanical fastening or adhesive

Choice #4: Engineered wood flooring:
Engineered wood floors are real wood floors that are manufactured using three to five layers of different wood vaneers. The grain of each layer runs in different directions, therefore making it dimensionally more stable. This means that the wood will expand and contract less than solid wood flooring during fluctuations in humidity and temperature.These products are ideal for glue-down or floating installation above, on or below grade, to include basements and humid climates.

SOLID vs. ENGINEERED
Both types of hardwood floors are completely comprised of 100% real wood, can be refinished, and are available with factory or jobsite finishes. But that's where the similiarities end.

Solid Wood: When a manufacturer talks about a solid floor, it is referring to a 3/4" thick piece of solid wood. It can be installed on or above grade, but not on a slab. The wood is generally nailed to a plywood subfloor. One thing to keep in mind is that solid floors may not perform well in areas of high humidity or areas with large temperature changes. Because it is a 3/4" section of a tree, it responds to water and moisture like a tree. If the air is hot and humid, the floor will soak up the moisture, causing it to swell. When the air dries out, the floor will shrink, leaving gaps in between the boards. The wider the boards, the bigger the gaps and the more likely it will "cup"or "crown". For this reason, solid flooring is most common in areas with low humidity, such as the Northeast and Midwest. Most people like solid hardwood because it is traditional and can be sanded many times.

Engineered Wood: The PT boats in World War II were actually constructed out of several layers of wood, with each layer's graining facing in the opposite direction of the layer above or below it. It was this concept that gave birth to engineered flooring. To better understand this concept of "cross plied" wood, let's look at the basics. A tree uses its roots to take water from the ground and deliver it to the leaves using straw-like cells to move the water up the trunk. These cells get plumper when they are full of water and shrink when they are dry. Just as these cells change with moisture in a tree, they will also change with moisture within a floor. By stacking veneers with these cells facing in opposite directions, no one layer can grow or shrink too much in any direction. Because engineered floors can handle a certain amount of moisture from the subfloor, they can be installed anywhere in the house, above or below grade, on concrete or plywood subfloors, with glue, nails, or even by floating. Most engineered floors are finished at the factory, so they generally have aluminum oxide, the hardest manmade crystal in the world, in their finish. As for sanding and refinishing, an engineered floor can be sanded about twice depending on the thickness of the wearlayer.

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Grades

The appearance of the wood determines how it is "graded." All grades are equally strong and serviceable, yet afford the consumer different looks.

	Clear is free of defects, though it may have minor imperfections.
	Select is almost clear, but contains more natural characteristics, such as knots and color variations.
	Common (No. 1 and No. 2) has more markings than either clear or select and is often chosen because of these natural features and the character they bring to a room. No. 1 Common has a variegated appearance, light and dark colors, knots, flags and worm holes. No 2 Common is rustic in appearance and allows all wood characteristics of the species. Some checking is to be expected.

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Cuts

The angle at which a board is cut, determines how the finished product looks. Wood flooring is either plainsawn, quartersawn, or riftsawn.

Plainsawn is the most common cut. The board contains more variation than the other two cuts because figure patterns resulting from the growth rings are more conspicuous.

Quartersawing produces less board feet per log than plainsawing and is therefore more expensive. Quartersawn wood twists and cups less and wears more evenly, and is therefore more stable.

Riftsawn is similar to quartersawing, but the cut is made at a slightly different angle.

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Finishes

Lasting beauty requires minimal care with todays wood floor finishes. The most popular finishes today are surface finishes, because they are durable, water resistant, and require minimal maintenance. They are most often referred to as polyurethanes and remain on the surface of the wood to form a protective coating. There are several types of surfaces finishes:

1. Oil-Modified Urethane is easy to apply. It is a solvent-base polyurethane that dries in about eight hours. This type of finish ambers with age and is also very durable.
   
   
2. Moisture-Cured Urethane is a solvent-base polyurethane that is more durable and more moisture resistant than other surface finishes. Moisture-cure urethane comes in non-yellowing and ambering types and is generally available in satin or gloss. These finishes are extremely difficult to apply, have a strong odor and are best left to the professional.
   
   
3. Conversion Varnish is clear and dries in about 8 hours. It is durable and non-yellowing. These finishes have an extremely strong odor and should be applied by the highly skilled wood flooring professional.
   
   
4. Water-Based Urethane is a waterborne urethane that dries by water evaporation. These finishes are clear and non-yellowing. They have a milder odor and dry in about two to three hours.
   
   
5. Penetrating Stain and Wax Finishes soak into the pores of the wood and harden to form a protective penetrating seal. The wax gives a low-gloss satin sheen. They are durable, but will show spots from water and other contaminates. Only solvent-based (never water-based) waxes, buffing pastes or cleaning liquids (specifically made for wax-finished, wood floors) should be used.
   
   
6. Acrylic Impregnated Finishes are injected into the wood to create a super hard, durable floor. These finishes are rarely used in residential applications. They are most often used in very high traffic areas, and commercial settings, such as malls and restaurants.
   
   
7. Surface Finishes are very popular today because they are durable, water-resistant and require minimal maintenance. Surface finishes are blends of synthetic resins. These finishes, most often referred to as urethanes or polyurethanes, remain on the surface of the wood and form a protective coating. They are generally available in high-gloss, semi-gloss, satin and matte. Any one of the surface finishes are appropriate for the kitchen.

METHODS
Two finishing methods are available for wood floors:

Jobsite Finishing is one that is applied in the home. The consumer chooses the type of finish to be applied to their floor, to include stain and sheen. A jobsite finish can be customized and offers unlimited possibilities as to the final appearance of the floor. However, because the floors will be sanded and finished in the customers home, noise and dust, as well as some disruption to the home and daily routine should be expected. Time must be allowed for the finish to cure onsite during which time no one will be able to walk on the floor.

Factory Finishes are applied at the mill long before the floor is installed in the home. A major benefit is minimal dust and noise during the installation process and use of the space immediately after the installation is complete.

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Species

Todays wood floors come in more than 50 species, both domestic and exotic. Spanning the spectrum of colors, hardness, and price ranges; from traditional oak, rustic pine, exotic wenge, or bamboo, there is a color and style to fit any decor.
Species Guide: CLICK HERE

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Custom & Specialty

Custom designs can give a homeowner a "one-of-a-kind" floor and are a wonderful way to put a splash of personality and individual character in a home.

Mixed Media - By combining wood with several different media such as slate, stone, marble, metal or ceramic tile, floor designs and patterns come to life. Adding detail with paint is another alternative. Designs properly applied will enhance and differentiate any wood floor. Use a solid gloss or semi-gloss paint to make stripes, checkerboards, stenciled borders or even flower or animal scenes. The paint must be compatible with the finish and the floor must have two coats of finish over the paint.

Mixing Species - Mixing wood species is another way to create contrast in wood flooring. Oak is not the only wood type being used today. Maple, birch, walnut, Brazilian cherry, mahogany, ash and many other species offer unique grain and color specs.

Affordable Custom Floors - A floor refinisher can use different wood stains to create fool-the-eye inlays, pinstripes or borders. A simple brass inlay around a fire place is a cost-effective way to add that value-added touch. Or ready-to-lay, prefabricated wood tiles with medallions, star bursts and elaborate borders are available. These pre-fabricated tiles allow homeowners to mix and match to create their own patterns and designs.

Recycled
Recycled and reclaimed wood is yet another specialty wood flooring option. Most of this wood is long-leaf heart pine, American Chestnut or red/white oak purchased from the demolition sites of old homes, mills, ships, warehouses and barns.Flooring made from recycled wood has the natural beauty of knots, flags, worm holes, color variations and other character marks. Through years of aging, this wood flooring has a rich patina that becomes more beautiful each year.

Hand Scraped
A newer floor can acquire an antique look through distressed hand scraping, smooth hand scraping or hand fluting. Hand scraping can create a classic floor that wears like iron and has the look of a genuine 100- or 200- year-old floor.

 

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Cleaning & Maintenance

While specific finish types may require different maintenance, some guidelines apply to the care of all wood floors:
• Floor protector pads should be installed on the bottom of all furniture legs before furniture is placed onto the wood floor.
• Place rugs at all entrances. They help trap grit and absorb moisture before either one has a chance to damage the finish. (Check with the finish manufacturer for when these can be placed—usually they should not go down on the floor for at least seven days, and sometimes more than 21 days after the finish is applied.)
• Rugs should be shaken out, cleaned and thoroughly dried when they get wet.
• Take special precautions with non-skid pads that are frequently placed under area rugs. These pads may imprint their pattern onto the
finish and/or wood floor. (Natural fibers may not transfer as much as synthetic pads.)
• Be aware that area rugs often cause color differences in the floor due to differences in light exposure.
• Expect that floors will shrink and expand with changes in humidity, sometimes leaving small gaps between boards. To minimize changes, humidity control in the home is recommended.
• Routine basic maintenance includes sweeping, vacuuming and/or dust-mopping to remove dirt and grit. (Use only vacuums that have a hardsurface setting.) The more that dirt and grit are allowed to accumulate, the more they will be tracked over the floor, leaving scratches. Floors should be cleaned immediately before and after a major event.
• Some manufacturers recommend lightly dampmopping a floor, while others do not.
• Household dust treatments should never be used.
• All shoes, especially high heels, should be kept in good repair—if they lose their protective cap, they will dent the surface of any floor.
• Pet nails need to be trimmed regularly.
• Be especially attentive to potential spill areas, such as dishwashers, sinks, icemakers and stovetops. Other potential problem spots include household plants and Christmas tree stands.

WHAT TO USE?
It is important to understand which directions to follow and which products to use in caring for your wood floor.
Although Mr. Smith may use cleaning product X, his floor may have a different finish from Mrs. Brown’s finish next door.
• For factory-finished wood floors, consumers should follow the directions of the flooring manufacturer as to which cleaning products
to use. This is extremely important because not following those directions may void the manufacturer’s warranty of the wood floor.
• Consumers with floors that were finished at the job site should follow the maintenance directions of the floor finish manufacturer.
• Using a non-recommended product to clean the floor may ruin the appearance of the finish, and it also may cause problems down the road when it is time for the floor to be recoated.

 

 

 

Information Provided by the National Wood Flooring Association